Jersey Climbs

  • Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size
Home Amendments

Jersey Climbs - Amendments and Known Errors

Page 4

Printed By: Wet Fish Limited.
E-mail: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Tel: +44(0) 7771 726006

Page 10

In an emergency dial 112 or 999

La Prison – The Cell Area

Page 30

113. I Hate Vodka   35m   VS 4c   *
Starts up a short wall, then follow a crack/groove to the overhang, tackle this via the red bands to a ledge. Move slightly left and finish up the weakness in the overhang.

The Nethe Falaise – Right Buttress

Page 37

169. Exunt   45m   VS
1. 12m. 4c
2. 33m. 4c

The Rabbit’s Head – West Face

Page 47

237. Brave Weasels   24m   E4 5c  *

242. The Baron   20m   S 4b
Climb the slab to below the roof on the right. Tackle this via weakness on its left and continue up right to grooves near the arête.

The Dangle Dell – Dangle Dell

Page 53

302. Layoff   15m   HVD
Climb easily up the open corner moving left up the short arête to exit.

Page 54

303. Horny Ridge   15m   VD
Climb the wall to the right of the open corner, move to the back of the large ramp and finish up the corner.

Topo, Route 311 (should read 310)

The Dangle Dell – Pyramid Cliffs

Page 56

331. No Ego Required   18m   HVS 5b

Bumbley Buttress – Zugzwang Area

Page 58

349. Filling the Gaps   12m   HS 4a
Move up the left rising ramp to a thin crack, step up and left and climb the arête, (small wires, no gear after half height).

Bumbley Buttress – Zugzwang Area

Page 59

353. Just in Time   12m   HVS 4c

Bumbley Buttress – Jambo Buttress

Page 61

A storm in Jan 2008 has caused loss of rock and has severely affected all routes on this buttress.

Radar Buttress – Radar Wall

Page 64

401. Satan’s Piles   10m   D
Climb the slab just left of the connection with the main bulk of rock. Harder if taken to the right.

Page 65

408. Yassa Syvret Burger   21m   ?
The 'detached looking boulder' is no longer in place. This route is likely to be much harder.

412. Jabberwocky   20m   E2 5b   * *
A tough route that tackles the steep and strenuous, although well protected, overhung corner/nose seen at the top of the crag. This is gained by both a bold and delicate approach via the corner and slab below (small wires).
Description amended due to the loss of a significant hold.

413. Cocoa The Clown   20m   E2 5b   * *
The ‘loose-looking block' is no longer in place, this makes for easier climbing but a poorly protected middle section.

Page 66

419. Awkward Beasts, Winkles   20m   HVS 5a   *

Radar Buttress – Guns Cliff

Page 68

431. Pop Gun   18m   VS 4c
Climb the left narrow slab/ramp then move rightward to tackle the slanting groove above, finish direct, or for better rock quality and a good stance, easily to the right.

432. Pig   15m   E2 5c
Climb the right of two narrow slab/ramp to a diorite band. Gain the slab, past underclings then finish through a small overhang above.

432. Pungent Effluent   21m   VS 4c
Mantle block now gone.

434. Slime Crime   21m   E2 5b   *
Harder start and finish, mantle block at 2/3 height now gone.

Page 70

448. The Old Pig   12m   HS 4b   *
Finish right.
The Direct HVS 5b. Tackles the slot in the overhang.

Rouge Nez - West Face

Page 75

499. Wish You Were Here   21m   E4 6a   * *

The Pinnacle - Landward Face

Page 79

529. One for the Boys Back Home   24m   E4 5c
(name error)

La Corbiere – La Rosiere

Page 96

649. Special Petrol Group   18m   E3 5c
Takes the line up the centre of the quarry face.
Start on the left and move up then right along a crack to gain the ledge, move up again via the leaning crack to a move to gain a standing position on the shelf above (crux). The difficulties continue with a move up past the nose (gear on left), to a ledge on the right, then a finish up the short steep wall to the left.

La Moye - Gorselands

Page 99

678. Slapper   10m   HVS 4b
Poor rock quality.

Page 100

683. A Bucket for Monsieur   10m   E1 5b

La Moye - Trespass Point

Page 104

724. Hot Wash   10m   HVS 5c

725. Mushroom Tea   9m   HVS 5a

Beauport – Gully Wall

Page 108

775. Hailstone Crack   15m   HS 4b   * * *
Grade input incorrectly.

790. May Cause Transient Smarting   15m   E3 5c  *
A fine line climbing the left-hand arête trending left to gain the break. Move right to finish up the centre of the block.

La Cotte de St Brelade – La Cotte Point

Page 115

825. Phantom of the Opera   50m   E7 6b   * * *
Start 2m left of a wire fence. (No wire fence, this has been removed). Start 2m-3m left of the arête.

La Cotte de St Brelade – La Cotte Island

Page 118

855. The Chin   15m   HVS 5a   * *
The protruding nose, tackled on its right provides the crux and a welcome rest before a delicate exit up the arête.
FA: Graham Arthur, Rosemary Arthur, 31/03/1989. The nose was gained from the corner on the left. AKA: Mad Dogs and Englishmen / The Direct, Mark Phillips, R. Haddow, 10/08/1989.

857. Banana Back Pegs Diffs   15m   HVS 5a
Start well right of the nose, just left of an overhanging curving crack line. Climb steep ground to a huge jug, good but spaced holds gain the shallow right facing corner above.

Portelet – The Gritstone

Page 119

Topo, Route 863 (should read 864)
Topo, Route 864 (should read 865)

Sorel Point - The North End

Page 128

943. Hello   25m   S 4b
Rock fall has removed this route

944. Death or Victory   12m   E1 5a
Rock fall has removed this route

Sorel Point – Great Slab

Page 133

1007. Sloeblack   25m   VS 4b
(name error)

 
0842_01_2010-03-14.jpg
The BMC
Share on Facebook